My car is a 2004 model with a secondhand hardtop from another car that I've only recently put on. The creaking on turn in is gone, as are the leaks from inconsistent seal pressure and wind noise is down too.Īppearance wise, they look great but you can see a little bit of body coloured paintwork on the inside of the hardtop after they are installed so you may want to paint those areas beforehand. I fitted Snelbaard's hardtop brackets over the weekend and they worked an absolute treat! The car is so much more enjoyable to drive without the clips rattling around at head height and the quality of the fitment of the hardtop to the bodywork was much better than I could ever achieve with the factory clips. I spent about 2 hours messing with it with no luck in the end. I was really looking forward to these brackets taking away some noise from the oem front brackets. Kind of unfortunate that these don't work. Other than that, quality of the brackets are top notch, but they don't work. I was able to bolt on bracket up to the hardtop, but it pulled the hardtop so far forward that it was sitting on top of the A-Pillars. I went ahead and tried to just fully install one bracket with nothing on the other side and it even had trouble with the bolt holes lining up properly. The bracket and the bolt holes were 2-4mm off and it was hitting the inside direction interior. I had one side bolted and kept it loose for some free play and went to the other side and there's no way it can line up. I tried everything and couldn't get the brackets to work. I had the hardtop completely unbolted so I can play with the fitment. Has anyone installed these on their mr2 spyder yet? Idk if I got a bad front set, but I went and tried to install them today and the fitment was way off. These brackets are 125 euros plus shipping for a full set of fronts and rears, though it's also possible of course to get just the fronts or just the rears for 70 euros. These brackets are 145 euros plus shipping for a full set of fronts and rears, though it's also possible of course to get just the fronts or just the rears for 80 euros. Have someone apply a bit of downward pressure on the hardtop when bolting on the rear brackets, so the hardtop will have a good seal.įinally: the rear brackets are marked 'R' and 'L' to avoid confusion during installation. Secondly: The holes of the rear brackets have some play. If I recall correctly, they're Torx 40 for the front latches and Torx 30 for the rear ones. For this reason you should be extremely careful undoing these bolts as they strip very easily. Here are some tips that might save a bit of hassle: The OEM bolts that Toyota used for the stock latches are made of very soft steel. For that purpose they come with all the bolts and washers required. Made of aluminium 5mm (front) and 6mm (rear) thick, they don't require any modification to your car and bolt right on. They have been some time in the making, but are now available: Both front and rear hardtop brackets. For the very few of you who might, as I do, run your hardtop permanently, here's a chance to save a fair bit of weight and lose the rattles of the latches at the same time.

Mr2 spyder 17 wheels mr2 spyder hardtop